Taming the devils spaghetti
One thing that tends to confuse many people, from the hobbyist to garage mechanics, is the electrical system and wiring on any vehicle. Strangely though, I enjoy this. I have built looms for basic grass tracking cars up to full on modern spec rally Escorts and a lot of other things in between. I want this loom to be look good as well as function, but I also want to hide it where it cant be seen.
Protecting the system
When I first bough this car, I intended to use a easily available fuse box and relay box combination. But this has now transformed into a full PDM controlled circuit with electric isolators and a locking system that is a little unusual.
Beyond the ordinary
The aim 32 channel PDM is capable of powering the majority of the vehicle, but it all depends on what other crazy ideas I add. It can be controlled by a CAN switch panel and communicates with the Dash and ECU by a second CAN data stream. This paired with a Aim Strada dash should provide me with all the data I should need.
Controlling the drive
From building many wiring looms and connecting them to ECU's, I have found DTA and Link to be very good. I have chosen to go with DTA as their software is quite easy to use and I can easily get support with it. A T8 ecu is currently ready to be wired in, but will need upgrading to a T8+ so that it can run fly by wire. This allows plenty on engine monitoring using a variety of sensors. Additionally, should I choose (most likely) I will be wiring in wheel speed sensors for traction control and launch control.
Aux circuits
Whilst the AIM pdm will be controlling the main engine functions and body functions, there is still a requirement to control auxilliary circuits. Possible central locking, solenoid operation and heated seats may need additional control. Cartek produce some small 4,5 and 8 channel PDM's that will take up these optional extras. The beauty of these is that they do not need a laptop to program them.
Security
Mini's can be picked up and stolen so easy, starting the old ones requires two wires once the bonnet is open from the external catch. The door locks are usually so worn that any key can open them, and the ignition switch is also easily bypassed. Injection versions with immobilisers were a little trickier though, and then when the immobiliser failed, it wouldn't star tat all.
So what's the plan.
I considered Bluetooth systems to unlock the car, but many of them have a 10m range. That's no good as it would probably stay unlocked in the work carpark. And then I stumbled across a finger print scanner that operates on 12v. This will be used to open the drivers door from the outside and will be positioned at the top of the B pillar. It can be programmed with up to 1000 finger prints so that should do. The passenger side will be by means of a capacitive touch switch (Totally flush and no moving parts) that will only be active when the finger print sensor allows. The finishing touches are to be confirmed, but the idea is there.
Lighting
I don't want to go with plain normal lights, and I have thought long and hard about how to change them. The rear are now progressing nicely. The two holes in the mk1 plates that have been inserted have been drilled out to about 54mm. Flat Lucas lenses as fitted to some Landrovers (I think) will be used but mounted from the inside, making them almost flush.
Indexable LED rings will be fitted into these glass lenses so tjat the lights can be dynamic, a bit like modern day Audi or Mercedes lights. They will be controlled by small Arduino boards in each rear corner which will enable the LED'S to switch function. Indicators LED's can become reverse LED's by a little bit of coding and a switch. The prototypes have been built and tested, a couple of tweaks to iron out and they are ready to go. A bit of 3d printing will hold them in place and keep them all tidy.
Photos to follow.
Front lights are also going to have to do something different. There are so many LED versions of 7 inch headlights. Most or all have plastic lenses that are easy to scratch, most have poor beam patters. So I may have to go a different route. Maybe a set of Cibie H4 headlamps with LED rings put into them. Some research to do there.
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